 You might have read the blog post on Pinfest 2022 with a little confusion. I talked about bringing a Super Mario Bros (Gottlieb, 1992) machine to Pinfest. But I have never mentioned owning a Super Mario Bros machine before, and there certainly hasn't been any restoration blog posts about the machine. What gives? I had actually purchased this machine a couple of years ago from a young couple who also lived in Sydney. They had bought the machine over a decade ago and it had been sitting in the basement of their house for some time, rarely played because it had various issues. They offered it to me for a reasonable price and as I was looking to get more experience repairing Gottlieb machines, I was keen to take them up on their offer! Below are a few images of the game as provided by the seller.
Having just moved to our new house at the time we bought this game, it took Fiona and I a long time to get around to giving this machine the love it needed. The machine sat like this for a little over a year before we had finished our garage renovation, at which point we could finally move the games into their proper place. Still, it took us several more months until we were deciding which game to bring to Pinfest 2022 that I looked over at the Super Mario Bros and decided this was the time to make the game shine again. With only a few weeks until Pinfest, it was crunch time. We had to tear this game apart, fix it up and put it all back together again in very short order. I didn't have the time to write up a restoration blog about it at the time. Better late then never, so here it is! Initial condition report (click on sections below to view details) Cabinet
Average condition overall.
Above playfield
Average condition overall.
Under playfield
Average condition overall.
Electrical
Good condition overall.
While the game did seem to turn on and boot up, the game wasn't playable due to a ball stuck error which would reappear every time the game was booted up and started. The cabinet was a little rough around the edges as it had been stored in a slightly damp concrete basement for some time, and a fair bit of rust had taken hold of the legs and side rails. Internally, it looked quite OK, with no glaring issues apparent apart from a missing coin box. The playfield looked to be dirty but otherwise in reasonable condition. Apart from a little wear around the kickout holes, the playfield had been protected by a layer of Mylar across most of its surface, and the Mylar was still in good condition. There was one particular spot of wear where the ball drops from the upper playfield to the main playfield (why did they not Mylar over this spot?!) and some minor planking around the outlanes at the bottom of the playfield. But otherwise, the artwork was in good shape. Disassembly There are only a few main components to the Super Mario Bros playfield that you need to remove in order to get to the guts of it, as everything else is on the main playfield level:
They are all pretty simple to remove. For the wireform ramp (left side of playfield), there are three metal screws (top half) and two wood screws (bottom half) to undo. The green plastic ramp comes off next, and is screwed to the mini playfield (two screws) with some additional screws securing it to metal posts and the timber side rail. The mini playfield is actually quite simple to remove once you have the previous two ramps and playfield plastics off. It is secured onto posts on the main playfield below by a few long metal screws at the top left, top right, and bottom of the mini playfield. The revolving blue castle plastic is secured to the mounting bracket by two plastic rivets, which can be "popped" up with a pry tool. The rest of the playfield is quite straightforward to disassemble. Some pictures of the disassembly process appear below. After disassembly, the game went through my standard restoration process to get it playing and looking like new. During the restoration process, I dealt with a number of issues, described below. Tips & Troubleshooting (click on sections below to view details) Ball stuck; call serviceperson error
Ball stuck error as it originally appeared on the machine.
This was the error which the game was originally showing when we purchased it. A quick check showed that there were only two balls in the trough, but Super Mario is a three-ball game. The third ball turned out to be in the right upkicker, and wasn't getting kicked out. A quick check in test mode showed that the kicker would not fire. Up goes the playfield so we can have a look. The kicker was all OK mechanically and all of the wires appeared to be securely attached to the coil and switch lugs (the switch also tested OK in test mode). Next thing to check were the fuses. Remember: in System 3 games, most coils are individually fused. This is great for troubleshooting because you can immediately tell which coil is the source of a potential issue, instead of having to look at up to five or six different solenoids to find a problem. Turns out, the fuse for the right upkicker coil had blown open, and a new fuse was all that was needed to get it working again (F26).
Whenever I replace a fuse for the first time in a game, I take the opportunity to check all of the fuses to make sure they are the correct current ratings. There's always a few that are wrong. In this case, I found four fuses on the playfield were overfused, so I replaced them with the correct values. Luckily the fuses on the transformer panel were all correctly rated. 
F15, F16, F17 and F20 were all found to be overfused.
Display stopped working
This issue came out of nowhere while I was halfway through putting the game back together. While testing some coil assemblies on the playfield, the display suddenly went blank. I didn't see what was happening on the screen at the time as I had my head under the playfield, but when I next looked up at the display, there was nothing there. A few reboots and the situation stayed the same. I suspected there was an issue with the display panel or the display driver board in the backbox. Time to narrow things down further.
Testing the display in another game, everything worked fine, so I could eliminate the display panel as the issue. Instead I focused on the display driver board (A8). The first thing I checked were the fuses. These are below the playfield mounted to the transformer panel. There are two fuses for each of the high voltages sent to the display driver board. These are F3 and F4 for the 95-volt and 58-volt circuits, respectively. F3 had blown. I replaced it, but needed to figure out why it had blown in the first place before I powered on again. 
Location of F3 on the transformer panel.
F3 fuses the 95-volt circuit which feeds 95 VAC from the transformer to the display driver board. Here, it gets rectified to DC, then gets converted into the 100 volt and 112 volt rails used by the display panel. The circuit starts with a bridge rectifier (as four discrete diodes) on the display driver board, designated D5-D8. My testing was pretty protracted here, as I found the problem in this rectifier. D6 and D8, both connected to the positive leg of the rectifier, were both shot (shorted). If I had turned the game on without replacing these diodes, the fuse would have blown again. I replaced these diodes, booted up the game, and the display came to life again. The original diodes were 1N4004s, but I like to replace these with higher-rated 1N4007s (element14, Jaycar). I'm not entirely sure why these diodes decided to give up the ghost when they did, but luckily the fix wasn't too involved. 
New D6 and D8 diodes installed.
Flipper switch issues
There were a couple of problems to address with the flipper buttons. First, the capacitors. Each switch in the flipper switch stack should have a 0.1 uF, 500-volt capacitor across the switch blades. This helps reduce arcing across the contacts, as higher currents and voltages are passed through these switches than in other manufacturer's games. This extends the life of the switch contacts by reducing wear and pitting from constant arcing every time the flipper is activated. The game will work without them, but your switches will wear out more quickly (Jaycar, PSPA).
Case in point, the switch contacts on the left flipper switch were pretty roasted. Ideally, a new flipper switch is needed here (RTBB, PSPA). I bought a spare but in the meantime I managed to get a little more life out of this one by filing the contacts down. These contacts can be filed with a fair bit of aggression, as they are high current contacts. Once it starts to fail, I'll get the replacement in. 
Pitted contact on the flipper switch.
Mode lamp not working
The green plastic lamp on the right side of the playfield also displays the game modes, with an LED lamp board mounted to the underside of the ramp to show which modes have been completed and which are yet to be started. One of the mode lamps was not working (mega bumpers). Getting to the lamp board is easy, but requires removal of the ramp assembly. There are four playfield screws to remove (two metal screws, two wood screws) and three connectors to unplug (one for the lamp board, two for flashers on the ramp). The ramp can then be removed and the lamp board can be disconnected from it (four nuts and bolts).
Unfortunately, replacing the defective LED is not as simple as swapping a globe, as these lamp boards use LEDs that are soldered directly to the board rather than utilising a socket. There are two main components that can fail here: the LED itself, or the blocking diode associated with the LED. I tested both, and found that the LED itself was testing as an open circuit.
Should be a simple fix! We will just desolder the old LED and whack in a new one, right? I found a similarly-sized LED (Jaycar) and installed it. It worked great, and looked very similar to the original ones, except for being a little bigger. This is where I realised a problem. The LED was approximately 10mm in diameter, whereas the hole in the ramp in which it sits is about 9mm wide. It did not fit. I thought about cutting or sanding away some of the LED dome, but this would make the LED look hazy and dull. I did not want to enlarge the hole in the ramp, either.
Green replacement LEDs of the correct size (8mm) are available (part no. XO866, PBR). However, I wanted to use a red LED and did not want to wait for an overseas order to arrive. Instead, I opted to use a smaller, 5mm diameter LED (Jaycar). This didn't look great as it was noticeably smaller than the original LEDs, but otherwise worked fine. 
Lit lamp board after installation of the smaller replacement LED.
While looking at parts for another machine, I ended up finding a compatible replacement which was very similar in size to the original LED (element14). I ended up installing this one, and it matched the size and intensity of the original LEDs very well. Sometimes, it takes a couple of tries to find just the right replacement part! Various lamps not working
There were two issues contributing to lamp issues on the playfield. The first issue I tackled was the "Shoot Again" insert lamp not working. Thinking it was just a simple globe replacement, I took a look under the playfield and realised that somebody had worked on the lamp socket at some stage before, and had basically screwed it up. These lamp sockets are meant to consist of a socket attached to a diode board (e.g., part no. 26621, RTBB, PSPA). This socket and board were not present, and had been replaced with some generic socket bent into shape to accommodate the bulb. Most importantly, there was no diode to be seen.
Lamp socket configuration as found in the machine.
Now, these Gottlieb sockets are expensive, so I don't tend to use them as replacements. Instead, use a generic lamp (i.e. Williams part no. A-2916, RTBB) socket and simply solder a diode into the socket as required. Sockets with multiple lugs are best for this, for reasons which will become clear in a minute. To figure out how the socket is wired, let's look at the lamp matrix in the manual. 
"Shoot Again" lamp as it appears in the lamp matrix.
So, "Shoot Again" is the first lamp in the matrix at Strobe 0, Return 0. The strobe originates from A9J5, with a yellow-black-black wire (400). This then connects to the diode, which is connected in series between the strobe wire and one side of the lamp. The non-banded side of the diode connects to the yellow-black-black wire, and the banded side connects to the lamp. Now it doesn't really matter which tabs on the lamp socket you connect to, as long as they are consistent with the schematic above; current can flow through the lamp in either direction. The other side of the lamp connects to the return wire, which is grey-black-black (800). In this case, since I did not have an extra lug on the assembly which connected to this side of the lamp, I simply soldered to the lamp bracket. 
Repaired and correctly wired "Shoot Again" lamp assembly.
The reason why using a lamp socket with additional lugs is easier is because it gives you an isolated lug (a loop terminal, if you will) which you can secure the diode to. Otherwise, the end of the diode connected to the strobe line will be hanging in mid-air, which puts a lot of strain on the solder joint. Once the new socket was wired up, it started working again. The next lamp issue was to figure out why five other insert lamps on the playfield did not work. This was not an issue with the lamps themselves, the sockets, or the wiring. This problem was caused by failure of each of the diodes associated with the lamps. I could not figure out why these diodes had died as they were dispersed throughout the lamp matrix on different strobes and returns. The diodes were mounted to circuit boards as well as discrete diode boards attached to lamp sockets. As far as I could tell, there was no commonality between them which would explain why they may have failed.
I've never seem this many diodes simultaneously dead on a System 3 game before, so I just replaced them all and hoped for the best. The original diodes were 1N4004s, but I like to replace these with higher-rated 1N4007s (element14, Jaycar). The lamps all worked fine after that and there haven't been any other diode issues since. Backbox lock and topper installation
I don't know why people do this, but the screws which secure the backbox lock plate to the backbox had been replaced with woodscrews which were way too long. These should be security screws, and definitely not with countersunk heads.
The original screws were so long, in fact, that they punched through the topside of the backbox and now I had two new holes to patch! So I started to think of ways I could use these holes instead. As these holes were perfectly centred on the backbox, it made perfect sense to use these as mounting holes for a topper. Super Mario Bros never had a topper from the factory, but there are heaps of Mario toys which can be used for this purpose. Fiona found a perfect toy for this - a Super Star night light. These are available absolutely everywhere and in a range of sizes. Kmart and Big W were even selling them for a while, which is where we got ours. The light itself is pretty simple, just a plastic casing containing six LEDs, a battery pack, a switch, and wiring. The LEDs are pretty small and don't throw much light. I wanted to modify it a bit so that it was brighter, and also interacted with the game.
I decided to replace the tiny LEDs with standard pinball lamp sockets, which I could wire into the general illumination circuit. I also decided to install a single flasher socket in the centre, which would add a bit of interactivity to the topper. A bayonet flasher socket was the best option here as they sit relatively flat. I removed all of the LEDs from the circuit board so I could use it to mount the sockets to. I drilled holes for the sockets, and flattened them out so they would reach into the "arms" of the star. This would throw light out evenly. Then, I wired them together in series. A single conductor under the screws of each mounting tab is a good way to connect all of the lamp bases together. I disconnected the battery pack, switch, and other original components as they wouldn't be needed anymore. 
New LED sockets and LED lamps installed on the original circuit board.
I had to drill a small hole in the rear of the assembly to fit all of the wires through. Once that was done, I could route them into the backbox. The annoying thing with Gottlieb System 3 games is that the ventilation holes in the rear of the backbox are covered up by the grounding panel which is on the inside of the backbox. So you can't poke wires through the ventilation holes like you can on most other manufacturer's games. However, if you remove the auxiliary sound board (top left of backbox), you will find some holes drilled in the ground plane for some unused circuit board or other assembly. These holes are the perfect size to slot a couple of wires through, and are directly in front of the ventilation holes at the top of the backbox. So this is where I inserted the four new wires from the topper (two for flashers, two for general illumination). 
Removal of auxiliary sound board reveals some holes in the ground plane.
Next issue is finding a spot to hook into power. I ran the wires along the top edge of the backbox, and then wrapped them around to the backbox insert panel. There are plenty of general illumination lamps and flashers here we can piggyback from. For the general illumination lamps in the topper, I simply soldered to the braid running between all of the other GI sockets on the insert panel. For the flashers, I used a couple of alligator clips for testing purposes, but then soldered the wires to the terminals of one of the two flashers in the centre of the backbox. These flashers are directly behind the star Mario is holding on the backglass. I wanted the topper to flash at the same time as the star on the backglass, so that's why I chose these flashers in particular. Observe correct flasher polarity here; the flasher won't work if you hook it up in reverse! 
GI lamps wired in, and clips on the flasher wires for testing.
Once the wires were all hooked up, I installed a connector at the rear of the star topper so it could easily be removed in future. Other than that, it worked really well! I like the way it looks, and like how it flashes in sync with the backbox flashers and GI. A simple, worthwhile mod for this game! 
Topper installed and fully illuminated.
Wireform ramp repair
The wireform ramp which feeds the ball from the mini playfield upkicker to the left inlane had a couple of issues. I had fixed some minor positioning problems during Pinfest, but there was another issue with the ramp that needed attention: multiple breaks in the wireform weldments. There were broken spot welds at the up-kicker where balls enter the wireform, and the mounting tab at the bottom of the ramp, which attaches it to a timber rail on the playfield, had snapped off entirely and was held on with a few cable ties.
While the cable ties were doing their job, fixing this properly would require some welding. I removed the ramp and took it to my good mate Darren to help me weld it back together. With a few new TIG welds in place, the ramp was back to full strength.
Incorrect playfield post
I've learned over the years that Gottlieb playfield posts like to snap in half when removed from the playfield, as they are glued into place with a thread-locking adhesive. So, I don't remove posts unless I absolutely have to. The post adjacent the hole on the right side of the playfield had broken at some point, and had been replaced with a weird homemade post made of a screw and some spacers, which was a loose and did not fit rubber post sleeves. It had to be replaced. These are 8-32 bumper posts (part no. 26531, PSPA, Mr Pinball). Luckily I had a couple of spare posts so I could whack one right in. The T-nut under the playfield was still in serviceable condition, so that didn't need to be changed.
Side rail replacement and metal polishing
As is typical with Gottlieb System 3 games, the metal side rails were in poor condition. They had started to rust quite badly, and polishing wasn't going to get them back to looking any good. The best option here was simply replacement. Vid9000 has a comprehensive guide on Pinside that describes the process.
Removal of the rails is simple but requires some specific tools. A metal blade, spatula, scraper, or other wide-tipped device is necessary to get under the spiral nail heads that secure the side rail to the cabinet. I like to use a small mallet to drive the scraper under the nail head, then rock it back and forth a little to loosen the nail and pull it upwards. Obviously, you'll need quite a strong blade on the scraper to do this. Once it's up a little, grab it with a pair of end-cutting nippers or pliers and simply twist and pull the nail out. Then there is one nut and bolt to remove at the front end of the side rails, adjacent to the flipper button. The rails should then slide off easily. 
Removal of side rail nails with a pair of nippers.
Replacement side rails are available locally thanks to Jeff and Mark from Railways. Instead of using screws or nails to secure the rails, we used double-sided adhesive tape (Bunnings). This is very strong stuff and won't come off without taking half of the cabinet with it! The tape is a little fiddly to apply but looks a lot better than having a line of nails along the rail. We found it easiest to apply the tape in two strips along the length of the rail, then "clip" the rail into place by resting it on the top edge of the cabinet and swinging it downwards and into place. You'll have to apply some downwards pressure as you do this, to ensure the flipper button hole in the cabinet aligns with the cut-out in the rail. It helps to have two people on the task, one swinging the rail into place while the other forces the rail vertically downwards near the flipper button.
The lockdown bar receiver was pretty grubby, but turned out quite well after a polishing session on the buffing wheel.
The glass channel at the top of the playfield was also quite rusty. These aren't available as reproductions anywhere, so polishing it up was the only option. It also turned out pretty well.
Launch button replacement
The red launch button had seen better days. The translucent plastic insert inside the button cover had been smashed, although the red button cover itself was still intact. While the button was still perfectly functional, it looked tacky, so I replaced it with a new one (part no. 28860). Unfortunately, the original button seems to be out of stock everywhere. However, this is just a stock standard red arcade push button, and any button that fits into the mounting hole will work. You can even use a Williams style launch button (RTBB, PSPA, Mr Pinball).
Missing coin mechanism
Gottlieb System 3 games mostly used Coin Controls C220 coin mechanisms, which are large electronic mechanisms that can accept multiple denominations. The coin mechanism was completely missing on this game, so I was on the lookout for an appropriate mechanism I could install.
One day while browsing Facebook, I found someone selling an assortment of random parts including coin mechanisms. Lo and behold, there was a C220 mech in there, so I sent them a message. They were still available, so I picked them up! Thanks Herman! The first problem I had was plugging the coin mechanism in. The connector in my cabinet had a loose white wire, which had fallen out of one of the connector slots. There were a couple of potential spots where it could have been reinserted. Luckily, Tee'd Off (Gottlieb, 1993) uses the same connector and coin mechanism, so I simply compared Super Mario to my Tee'd Off coin door and confirmed that all the white wires occupy the bottom six connector positions. I reinserted the loose wire into position 3 on the connector, and we were good to go.
Installing the mechanism on the door was a little fiddly. Observe the pictorial instructions on the rear of the mechanism which depict how to install the mechanism, by sliding it over the pins on the coin door and pushing downwards. I had to use a fair bit of force to get the mechanism on because the door was not completely straight. Then it was simply a matter of going into the self-test menu and scrolling through the tests. Gottlieb implemented a coin door test, which tells you whenever a coin is inserted through each coin door slot. If there is only one slot with an electronic mechanism, the test will report which coin denomination is being triggered, as per the sticker on the side of the mechanism. Luckily, this mechanism worked well, so nothing else was needed.
One interesting thing to note is that Super Mario did not have a $2 for 3 games pricing option. Pricing on Super Mario is linear (i.e., x for 1 game, 2x for 2 games and 3x for 3 games). The $2 for 3 games option was only implemented in 1993. Plastic "Warp pipe" refurbishment - need pics of finished product
The "warp pipe" is a quintessential part of any Mario game, and allows Mario to travel to different locations. The pinball machine would be incomplete without one, so Gottlieb placed one on the left side of the playfield, on the wireform ramp that sends the ball from the upper playfield up-kicker to the left inlane. This pipe was looking pretty sad after all these years, so it was time for a repaint. The pipe is actually made up of two separate sections. The "lip" of the pipe is a second, larger-diameter pipe that has been cut short and simply slides over the smaller gauge pipe. Simply clean and repaint the pipe for as as-new appearance. I went for a bright yellow colour to match the original, but warp pipes are better known as being green, so feel free to let that guide your colour choice!
I have seen some mods which involve sliding 3D-printed or moulded warp pipes over the flasher dome covers around the playfield. These look cool but I don't like the idea of covering up the flasher domes and restricting the amount of light that they throw out. In my searches of the plumbing aisle at Bunnings, I also found a perfectly sized coupling that slides right over the flasher domes and is shaped just like a warp pipe from the Mario universe (Bunnings). Simply paint an appropriate bright colour and you now have a fancy warp pipe mod for a fraction of the cost! Thank me later. Plastic ramp reinforcement
The green plastic ramp that drops the ball into the right inlane was cracked on this game. Some of the plastic was missing, and the pieces were nowhere to be found. This was a problem because the crack in the ramp was getting impacted by balls moving down the ramp, and they would impact the cracked are before dropping down to the playfield below. Therefore, the ramp needed some minor reinforcement to prevent it from cracking further. There are various plastic welding compounds that can be used for this purpose, but I decided on a more basic repair using very strong adhesive tape (Bunnings). I have used this stuff around the house and it has held for years with no sign of damage or a failing adhesive, which impressed me a lot. The ramp has been holding up well with this tape holding it together. I normally wouldn't recommend tape for repairs, but this allows the plastic to retain some flexibility, whereas a plastic welding compound with no flexibility to it would eventually break after repeated ball impacts.
Reassembly There are no big "gotchas" or things to look out for when attempting reassembly on Super Mario Bros. Simply reverse the order of the disassembly process and you should be good to go. One thing to keep in mind is the fact that there are several general illumination lamps and three flashers mounted above the top rear of the playfield. These are usually the original, burned out lamps from 1992 that nobody has bothered to replace because they are hard to see unless you're looking up at them from the playfield.  Lamp and flasher sockets above the rear of the playfield. Like all of my restorations, I remove all of the coil assemblies from the underside of the playfield so that I can clean and service them. This is a bit of a pain because the coils on Gottlieb System 3 games are soldered to their power and drive wires, and cannot be easily removed from the game to work on the assembly. I decided to install connectors (Jaycar) on each of the coil assemblies to make this process easier. This is especially useful on the flipper assemblies, as it allows you to swap out the complete assembly with a working one, if necessary, while you repair the original.
Super Mario is a huge licence, so there's no surprise there are a heap of trinkets and toys out there that people use to mod their game. Buying a set of figurines is a pretty common mod, as they can be stuck on various parts of the playfield. Sets of figurines are readily available in a lot of toy stores, or they can be bought online (AliExpress). I don't care much for figurines on the playfield that just make it easier for the ball to get stuck. However, I did like the idea of using a Mario figurine as a keyring for the coin door keys. Luckily, there are heaps of those available, too (AliExpress).  Mario keychain for the coin door keys. For rubbers, I used white rubber rings throughout as this matches the white mask on the playfield. For the metal playfield posts, I experimented for the first time with coloured PerfectPlay post sleeves (RTBB), as my regular Cliffy post sleeves (RTBB) were out of stock. The PerfectPlay post sleeves are very similar to Cliffys, and work just as well. I like the variety of colours they come in, and they're a bit cheaper. I matched the sleeves to the colours on the playfield around the posts, such as the yellow and blue pipes that are under the pop bumpers.  Post sleeves colour-matched to the colours of the playfield. I also installed a playfield protector to protect the playfield from further wear. There was some minor wear on this machine but I decided not to perform any touch-ups just yet. Overall, the playfield is very good, with the only noticeable wear being at the ball drop areas in the inlanes, and near the pop bumpers where the ball drops from the upper playfield. Conclusion A lot of people whinge about Super Mario Bros being a crappy game because its rules are shallow and the gameplay and playfield are "easy". Indeed, a suggestion from distributors when the game was first released was to install "very hard" difficulty settings on the game, so there is some truth to the game being easy. But I don't think this makes the game unfun to play. The game has good flow if you like to combo ramp shots, and you can combo the left ramp to upper playfield to right ramp all day long. Indeed, this is how you advance to SUPER status. The playfield layout is a little restricted, with only a couple of shots to make from the left flipper. So it's not the best game for seasoned pinball players. However, this game absolutely kills it in terms of popularity because of the theme. Everyone loves Mario, and it's such a recognisable property that people gravitate to it even if there are much better playing machines next to it. Pinfest last year was a great example of this, as Mario was one of the more popular machines. I like the look of the game, too. It's bright and colourful and really pops with some nice LEDs installed. I'll be keeping this one for a while, and taking it to shows whenever I can as kids and adults will always love to play it.
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