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    🦍 Repair log: King Kong LE (Stern, 2025)

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!


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    Quick service call on a King Kong LE today. Owner had just bought the machine from someone and wanted it to have a quick check-over, as well as some mods installed. Nothing to report after the check-over, as all switches, lamps, coils and motors were working just fine. As I would hope for a one-year-old machine! 


    Helped install a couple of mods including a custom shooter rod and topper. The topper looks great but note that there is a lot of additional work involved in installing it other than mounting it to the top of the cabinet. It comes with a set of plastic characters which you have to punch out of a template and slide into the marquee to create your own message. Each character is on a different piece of plastic, and each plastic has a front and rear backing which you have to peel off before installing. The same applies to the chain links and handcuffs for Kong. Each one of those tiny chain links has backing on both sides which you have to punch out of the template, peel, and connect together. Bring a small blade or a long fingernail; you're going to need it!


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    πŸ‘Ύ Repair log: Arcade 1UP Virtual Pinball (1UP, 2020)

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!



    Yep, we work on all types of machines! Even the virtual ones. Even the small-scale virtual ones! A lot of people consider these 1UP machines to be irreparable, and they do have some design issues, but there are still some simple repairs that can be done. 


    One of these machines had a non-responsive ball launch. The ball launcher is a weird design, with a magnet mounted to the end of the plunger which literally smacks into the circuit board with the detection circuitry. Unsurprisingly, one of the transistors on this board had been destroyed, so it was replaced. 


    There were a couple of screen issues as well. One of them was a loose wire connecting the main playfield screen to the motherboard. Re-crimped and reinstalled. Works fine again. The other was a non-working β€œscore display”. These are just a small LCD panel below the "backglass". There is an extremely fragile ribbon cable which feeds data to them from the motherboard. It had just fallen out of the connector. Reinserted it and secured it and the display turned on again.


    These machines are certainly not built to survive the rigors of a commercial arcade but, they’re a fun little game nonetheless. There are also options for people looking to convert these machines with updated hardware and software to run more β€œtables”. So even when the hardware or software does fail, there’s life left in the cabinets!

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    🌌 Repair log: Star Wars Trilogy (Sega, 1997)

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!


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    Called out to assist with a SWT having multiple issues. Let's start with the simple stuff! A flipper issue. Owner reported that the left flipper was buzzing loudly when it was engaged. Took a look under the playfield and found out why. Flipper coil stop was held in with only one screw, which was not even the correct type. Replaced it with the correct bolts and gave the flipper a clean and a new sleeve. Working OK now.


    Drop target issues next. The drop targets have trip coils which allow the targets to be dropped individually. However, the second target wasn't dropping. Everything checked out physically, but not electrically. Wire had broken off the coil so there was no "trip" action. Soldered it back on. The drop targets still needed some adjustment, though. Occasionally, the top drop target would reset but drop back down straight away. It was hitting the metal bracket immediately behind it. I needed to loosen the drop target assembly and shimmy it as far forward as possible, and also loosen the metal bracket and shimmy it as far back as possible, to create a gap between the target and the bracket.


    Now let's fix some coil issues! The ball shooter coil wasn't right. It wasn't able to shoot the ball out of the shooter lane. The entire ball shooter assembly was loose, which I soon realised was because the coil bracket had broken. New bracket needed here. I put it back together to test it out but I still got nothing. An entire bank of coils was actually dead. This was because fuse F21 was blown. Replaced it. Now when high voltage was applied to the playfield, the ball shooter coil was locking on. Makes sense... the transistor that controls the ball shooter had cooked itself, which probably took out the fuse. Replaced the transistor and the ball shooter was back in action. Oh, the shooter lane switch was also misadjusted, and would sometimes get stuck closed. Adjusted the actuator wire for better movement. Finally, all systems were "go" in the shooter lane!


    Any issues with the X-wing canon? Yep, a couple. Balls were getting stuck when diverted to the X-wing, as you couldn't fire them out. But this wasn't an electrical issue. The coil was firing just fine. It just wasn't moving the ball. The nylon tip of the coil plunger had broken off the metal shaft, so it was not long enough to actually hit the ball when activated. New plunger was installed and it was firing nice and strong again.


    There are two switches on the underside of the X-wing assembly. One is the "home" switch. The other is the "enable" switch. This enable switch must properly open and close as it acts as a safety switch for the canon. If misadjusted, the safety switch will never disengage, and it will never fire. That was also a problem here, so even when the coil was fully functional, it still wouldn't "shoot" when it was supposed to. Adjusted this switch and the canon began firing as expected.


    Halfway through the day, the ramp diverter stopped working as well. This diverter is an interesting design, with a magnet that captures the ball, mounted to a moving rail, with another coil to drag the magnet to another ramp, thereby "diverting" the ball. The screw which connects the coil to the magnet-on-a-rail had come loose, therefore there was no movement in the assembly. The screw was actually the wrong size, and was loose in the receiving thread. Correct screw was installed and everything tightened back up. 


    Next up, some game resets. After being on for most of the day, the game began to reset occasionally. Pretty typical symptom of a fatigued connector failing under load and heat stress. The CPU's 5-volt power comes from connector CN2. Replaced this with a new connector and new crimp pins. Solid connection now.


    Some lamp issues as well. The Han Solo in Carbonite figure has two LED boards around it, each with four LEDs on them. They light up in sequence and are a part of the lamp matrix (row 7). Three of these LEDs were actually dead. Unfortunately the boards are unobtainable, and I can't even find similar LEDs to buy anywhere. So I replaced these with square red LEDs in a symmetrical arrangement.


    Surely that's all? Well, no. There was a final issue with the X-wing. Specifically, its movement. It's meant to swing outwards towards the playfield, then swing back home in a consistent movement. Sometimes it would pivot outwards normally, other times it would only move a quarter of the way before moving back, sometimes it wouldn't move at all. I checked and replaced everything related to the motor including the motor relay board, filter cap, surge suppressor bulb, and connectors (a couple of these were dodgy). Cleaned and adjusted the whole assembly. But still the issue persisted. 


    The clue was the direction of motor rotation. The motor should move only CCW, but this one was moving CW sometimes, confusing the game. There should be a pawl within the gearbox to prevent CW movement, but this one appeared to be broken. Only way to fix this is a new motor, so a new one was ordered from PBR. However, the new one had issues and didn't run smoothly. This is one of the rare cases where even new parts won't fix an issue. The gearbox will potentially need to be de-cased to find out what the problem is. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to do this kind of work on site. This will have to be done another day!


    And so ends the Star Wars Trilogy saga. A repair job almost as long as the movie trilogy itself!


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    πŸ¦… Repair log: Judge Dredd (Bally, 1993)

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!


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    This Dredd had a rough time after moving house. The removalists destroyed the topper, breaking off its wings! It looks more like a sphynx than an eagle now. Thankfully, Planetary Pinball still have reproduction toppers in stock so a new one is on the way! While we wait for that to arrive, let’s deal with the other issues…

     

    First up are the test buttons on the coin door. Two of the buttons were very sticky and wouldn’t register consistent switch closures. These switches cop a lot of abuse, and they were cheap switches to begin with. Normally I shy away from contact cleaner in pinball machines but it works quite well at dissolving the muck and improving the action on these switches in particular. One spray on each switch and both were working nicely again!

     

    Upper left flipper was being weird. It was very weak when it worked, but pressing the flipper button rarely got it to move at all. Let’s look at the flipper switch in the cabinet. Dredd needs a unique opto interrupter and bracket due to where the opto board sits in the cabinet. These were missing, and they aren’t readily available. A regular opto board had been put in its place, with a long metal blade taped to the interrupter to make it work. Not a bad solution actually, but the tape had perished and the blade was loose. Reinstalled a new interrupter plastic and secured the blade to it properly.

     

    Some general illumination lamps were out in the backbox. Specifically the bottom half. These are all on the same GI circuit. Following the wire back to the power driver board, the J120/121 connectors were fine. So were the fuses. The problem was all the way back on the input side, at J115 where lamp power comes in from the transformer. The connector had been messed with and somebody had tried to solder some of the wires back into it, causing a couple to get loose. Installed a new connector with new terminal pins which made a solid connection and the lamps started working again. 

     

    What else? Battery was flat, so that was also replaced. Some vertical lines appeared on the display which were caused by a loose ribbon cable on the display driver board. One playfield switch needed adjustment. The playfield also got a clean. All working well now! 


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    ⚽ Repair log: World Cup Soccer (Bally, 1994)

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!


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    I sold this game to a customer about ten years ago. He still has it! Last week he asked me to give it a service as it wasn't working properly. When I got there I could see that its memory had been lost as the message on the display indicated that factory settings were restored. Unfortunately the batteries had not been changed in some time and were now toast. Luckily, WPC-S games had the batteries mounted to a small PCB above the CPU board. In this case the small PCB was toast but the CPU was fine. I removed the small PCB and installed a lithium cell instead. No more leak risks in future!


    Another issue presented itself once the game was booting up into attract mode. No sound or music. Sound board looked OK, so I tried reseating the ribbon cable. Next time I powered up, sound was back. A pretty good indication that the ribbon cable was on the way out. New one installed and sounds were back to normal.


    The only other issue I could see was a set of lamps not working. This was due to cracked solder on the lamp PCB. Once I fixed that, I played a few test games, and couldn't fault the game anywhere else. Just needed to replace the balls as they were getting a little pitted. A pretty good run for ten years! Maybe I'll see it in another ten. 😁 


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    πŸ•ΉοΈ Repair log: MAME arcade machine

    Repair logs are quick summaries of workshop and on-site repairs. If your machine needs a service, πŸ“¬ Contact Us to discuss how we can help!


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    Customer was about to throw this machine out as it was not booting up. As with most multicade machines, the system behind it is a PC running a MAME frontend. A lot of these machines are getting old, which means the PC batteries are running flat. That was the case with this one, and this was preventing it from booting. Once the battery was replaced and BIOS was reconfigured, it started up normally.


    But still there were issues. The control panel was mostly nonresponsive. Only a few of the buttons worked. This had nothing to do with the PC, and more to do with the literal mouse nest in the control panel. The mice had made a nice home amongst the wires, and had also chewed through some of them in order to fit their furniture in! Lots of soldering to repair all of the broken wiring.


    Once that was done the machine was back in action. From trash to treasure, as they say!